We had Mass for the pilgrimage group last night at St. Cecilia and then had supper at a humble spot in Trastevere. It wasn’t much, as far as the food scene is concerned but it was a slice of life and fast, because people had early flights. I had one more day in Rome. It started with sleeping in! Then I packed. Then I wrote. Then I went for lunch at a favorite place. The whole group ate there two nights ago.
I didn’t want anything heavy, since I am out again tonight. So, una caprese with the best mozzarella that I have had in any restaurant in Rome… reading while I waited.
Here se are.
Some of you may never have been to Italy and, even while here, have never had real mozzarella from water buffalo milk. Even here you have to ask questions about the mozzarella before ordering it, because they often don’t have the real stuff or they pass along second rate fare, hardly worthy of the name. If you have only had mozzarella in the USA, then you have never had mozzarella. They should be forced, even at sword point, to change the name to something else like “white cheese product”. The real mozzarella is like silk and is oozes milk when you cut into it. And, if you can imagine, it is even better when it comes off the paddle and out of the vat. Anyway… una caprese. The “una” agrees with “insalata”.
Some of the great things lined up for your inspection as you enter the place. Such as artichokes:
Their daily fresh fish options:
Okay… back to my second course. I’ve been eating plenty lately, so today, after the caprese, I had a sauté of clams, vongole, in white wine and garlic:
My view while eating. The restaurant has some elements of the remains of the ancient Theatre of Pompey. No, this is not the place which is named after the Theatre, or which advertises that it has remains of the structure in their lower level. This restaurant is a bit quieter in its presentation and facade. It is nothing to look at outside, and you would be tempted to walk by without giving it a second thought. Inside, however, it is spacious.
They make ciambelle al vino rosso that you will not forget. And I am not one for sweets.
If you are someday between Sant’Andrea and the Campo de’ Fiori, check out Hosteria Constanza. All the waiters there are great, but Roberto speaks some English.
More of the stuff awaiting you as you come in the door. Look… I don’t know why my phone posted the photos out of order, so I am just working with what I find as I scroll down.
Their apple tort, on which they put chocolate.
After this light lunch, I went to the Norcineria Viola, which I wrote about the other day, and got a few slices of salami with black truffle and also with Barolo for dessert. Perfect.
A sight in the Campo de’ Fiori.
And, just for nice.
As I was walking through I was, in the space of about 30 feet called both a serpent and a fox. I think they didn’t like priests. It feels like old times. One of the funniest moments I had in Rome was when an old crazy woman, and I mean sparks-shooting-from-head looney, followed me through the Campo and down a street shouting imprecations which I dasn’t reproduce here. Suffice to say that the lightest one was “mafia slave … schaivo mafioso!” It didn’t help, I think, that as she went on I got the giggles, which just set her off more.
Nap time. Then I’ll hunt up some cigars and take care of a few final errands.