A couple things.
First things first.
People are complaining that my LENTCAzTs “pieces” are not showing up in iTunes or Google podcasts.
That’s because I can’t figure out how to post them in Soundcloud and have them to into iTunes and Google podcasts. I, frankly, don’t have the time to figure it out.
I know that some would like these for the car or etc. I’d like to be able to accommodate.
If someone KNOWS how to do this, contact me. HERE
That is not an invitation to suggest to me to “Read this site…. X”. No. I want to be told how to do it. Break it down Barney style.
NEXT… chess pieces.
I have a nice set of heavily weighted pieces which I use on my study board at home and also for my travel set.
As you can see on this rook (Latin: turris or rochus) has an unsightly “parting line” in the plastic. These parting lines really harsh my buzz, disturb my 和, kill my vibe, crumble my cookie, etc. I want them gone. I want to have, so to speak, a parting of the ways with those parting lines.
The plastic is quite hard.
So, some sort of superfine polishing compound that won’t ruin the finish? Maybe with a Dremel? With Dremel polishing wheels? With some kind of polishing cream like the stuff I used on internal firearm parts to get a smooth action?
You readers know everything. What to do? Contact me HERE
You can get these pieces, a vinyl board and nice bag via my affiliate link:
The House of Staunton US Chess Supreme Triple Weighted Chess Set Combo
And after I get an answer to my query, you too can rid part your ways with the injection mold parting lines!
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Fr. Z,
depending on the hardness, you might want to start with a scalpel, safety razor, “X-Acto knife”, etc. In a motion similar to zesting lemons to create a garnish, try to scrape the parting line off the cylinder. Go easy and the only portion of the finish at risk is that on the parting line itself.
As for buffing or polishing, it really really depends on the hardness. If you “botch it”, get some sandpaper in 600 grit and something like 1500 or 2000 grit. Work over the entire piece to a satin finish. Then some simple furniture wax should be able to bring it up to a shine. This will be similar to the process of spit-shining uniform shoes.
Fadda Z wants those parting lines DEAD! He wants their family DEAD! He wants their house burned to the GROUND!
I too struggled with the podcast episodes not showing up.
One possible solution if your podcast player can support RSS feeds is to add the SoundCloud feed directly.
https://feeds.soundcloud.com/users/soundcloud:users:686719601/sounds.rss
Father I’d be VERY careful with a Dremel. Those things are very powerful and even with super fine grit or buffing compound, it would be easy to “round off” your piece, creating a flat spot (or grind off the ear of knight!). I would endorse the careful application of the “X-acto” approach above.
I do some resin work. You might try Flitz polish:
https://www.little-windows.com/collections/adhesives/products/resin-polish-kit-the-safe-polish
If you use sandpaper, try to use wet/dry as you don’t want to inhale the plastic fibers. Typically, I’m only able to use an exacto knife for a few days after curing before the plastic gets too hard.
Smooth it with sandpaper then paint over it (the whole piece) . I’m assuming all pieces, not just the rook, need work.
Put a piece of masking tape over the bottom and spray paint it.
That is an ugly color anyway.
Go full white.
This issue comes up with model building all of the time. Here is a link to a good discussion. There are additive and subtractive methods for removing the seam. Special paints for plastics, such as Krylon, can be used once basic shaving is done to add a uniform layer or one can simply use an Exacto knife or scrape or cut a strip of emery cloth slightly smaller than the width of the area and surround the cylinder and pull-sand the piece.
Given the rise of AI, it was only a matter of time before someone developed a robot chess board.
The Chicken