This improbable place never ceases to amaze.
St. Mark’s Square, which at about noon today will start to fill up with water. Raised sidewalks of metal scaffolding will be set up for people to file along. In this age of selfies, there is rich potential for real delays and splash downs.
Yesterday I went to a couple church’s to arrange Mass times for the group. Allow to say here that the sacristan at S. Zaccaria sets a new standard for being a total jerk. Italian sacristans can be extremely …. unhelpful. Not are they often among the most liturgically (etc.) ignorant of all carbon-based life forms, but they are also the most likely to share their witless and ill-informed opinions. In any event, the guy at S. Zaccaria is a first class ass. This is not the first time I’ve tried to deal with him. Also, some of the group I am with went by the church as the evening Mass was concluding, the minute the priest finished he started turning out lights and shooing with no regard to the people who were still praying etc. A couple even had to use the lights on their phones to get out without falling. In any event, the sacristan is world-class oaf. In fact, reading this inscription in the campo outside the church kept me from saying many things.
That said, the sacristan at S, Moisè was friendly and helpful, as was the fellow at S. Marco after a couple attempts at brushing us of. Enough about sacristans.
After arranging the Mass for this morning at the altar of the Madonna Nicopeia, I slithered over into the sanctuary to spend time asking St. Mark to take in had a friend who is wondering about a vocation.
Mosaics. Riveting. The basilica was pretty much closed when I finished in the sacristy and with my orisons, so I lingered a little and read the Latin and followed the story.
The evening meal brought all of us granceola, a kind of spider-crab salad. Just about to finish…
A couple folks in the party opted for the lobster with fresh mayonnaise.
I, however, had sarde in soar, one of my favorites in Venice.
Then spaghetti with squid ink.
The aforementioned mud-bug and its accompaniment.
From last night and moving to this morning, we had Mass, as I mentioned, at the altar of the Madonna Nicopeia, dear to the Venetians. She was – frankly – boosted from Constantinople where once she was carried into battle and because their Lady of Victory. The Venetians, knowing a good thing when they see it, helped themselves to the icon and used it for the same purposes. Now she awaits your attention in a chapel inside the side door of the basilica.
The Leonine Prayers after Mass on the Feast of St. Luke.