ROME DAY 4: Carbonara, Caravaggio, altar idiocy

On this Feast of Our Lady of the Rosary the Roman Aurora is at 6:45, Sunrise 7:11, Sunset 18:45 and the Ave Maria is still set at 19:00, not that anyone pays attention to it anymore.

I am reviewing Chesterton’s Lepanto.


Today at 12 is the Supplica alla Madonna di Pompei!

Also, it is the Feast of St. Mark, Pope, who is in the basilica bearing his name.   I shall have to visit it also today.

I put my head in for Mass at Ss. Trinità dei Pelegrini for the main Mass.  The place was jammed, people standing in aisles and in back.

Around the time of the consecration an old priest, Maltese as I learned, came in and observed.  After sometime he noticed, approached, and asked a few questions.  He was clearly surprised at the number of people.  Was it a special day?  Sunday.  Is it always like this?  Yes.  Is this the…the… Latin Mass?   Yes.  He was quiet for some time.  So many young people.  Yes, and this is a parish.   He was again quiet for some time.  Who is in charge?  I explained.  He stood still, taking it all in.  At last, he said that he was very impressed by the reverence of the people and of the liturgy.

After Mass a long consecration to Our Lady of Fatima was recited.

There were quite a few people who lingered outside after Mass.  Some well-known names, including Taylor Marshall and Michael Voris were there.  There were quite a few photos taken.   Voris had his crew with him and I suggested lunch.

Spaghetti alla carbonara.

Not mine

These guys work work work very hard, so I suggested a post-prandial stroll with an offer to show them a couple things they mightn’t have had a chance to see.  Some of the crew were in Rome for the first time.   Among the sights were Sant’Agostino, with its Caravaggio …

And the tomb of Saint Monica, mother of Augustine.

We stopped at the chapel of St. Rita and prayed for A, my godson, who has the horrible affliction of chronic migraines.  Please ask St. Rita to intercede for him?

Just for fun, a “Don’t Liter!” sign.  You will be fined 10 scudi and perhaps given other penalties as well.

I once worked out what the gold scudo was worth in modern terms.  HERE.  And at that post, you can hear The Great Roman reciting in Roman dialect a poem by Er Belli about a scudo.

Then there’s this.

We stopped into Sant’Ignazio, the great church of the once great Jesuits.  We prayed at the tomb of St. Robert Bellarmine for the Church and also for the repose of the soul of the late Bp. Robert Morlino, the Extraordinary Ordinary.

Nearby, the tomb and altar of St. Aloysius Gonzaga, wealthy noble brat-boy who became a great saint.

Look what these Jesuit idiots did at this magnificent altar.   It makes angels weep for shame.

Dumb. Dumb. Dumb.

At least it could be removed in a few minutes by a few men with strong backs.

St Aloysius is greatly – or was greatly venerated in the City.  In the sacristy of Ss. Trinità is this devotional painting.

This morning as I write, it is pouring rain and it will do through early afternoon.  It is supposed to clear up and be sunny, so I hope to get out for some sightseeing – strange for me to think in those terms here.

Cleaning continues.  My cold is worse.

About Fr. John Zuhlsdorf

Fr. Z is the guy who runs this blog. o{]:¬)
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  1. Gab says:

    Despite your cold, Fr Z. you seemed to have had a good day! Beautiful pictures of glorious paintings and churches. How wonderful that the Mass at Ss. Trinità dei Pelegrini was packed to the rafters!
    My TLM parish is under the patronage of both St Aloysuis and Bl. John Henry Newman. I hit the jackpot, thanks be to God.
    Prayers for your health too.

    Poor Caravaggio, despite his brilliant and breathtaking art, he was made to paint another “Inspiration of St Matthew” as his first showed St Matthew with dirty feet to depict poverty. It was rejected so he had to do it all over again. Sadly the original was destroyed in the bombing of Berlin during WWII. Hope you get a chance to visit San Luigi dei Francesi and the Cappella Contarelli with its three Caravaggio’s of St Matthew (mayhap you’ve already seen these).

  2. Gab says:

    And yes for St Rita’s intercession.

  3. Sid Cundiff in NC says:

    Thanks again for the photos. Sant’Ignazio is utter transport in painting, the 2nd best ceiling in Rome, and Spaghetti Carbonara is ambrosial food!

  4. Suburbanbanshee says:

    Vitamin A foods are good for respiratory sicknesses. So eat your orange, red, and purple foods!

    St. Teresa of Avila, St. Gemma Galgani, and St. Denis are also among the headache/migraine patrons.

  5. Semper Gumby says:

    Thank you Fr. Z for these tours of Rome, a view of the tomb of St. Monica, and the tale of the Maltese priest at Ss. Trinità dei Pelegrini. Prayers for a speedy recovery for you and your godson.

  6. Kevin says:

    Just noticed there were two jesuits that became Cardinals yesterday…two. Sigh!

  7. Kathleen10 says:

    That spaghetti makes me drool. Wowee.
    God bless and help your dear godson and cure your ailment. What timing.
    Thank you for the beautiful photos.
    I’m really happy about you spending time with Michael Voris and Taylor Marshall. These times are hard enough without all the division going on in the Catholic blogosphere. It must delight our enemies. This is a time to band together. The faithful have so much in common.

  8. JustaSinner says:

    “Once great” Jesuits. I see what you did there!

  9. teomatteo says:

    That second to the last photo. I really like those ‘solomonic columns’ pretty cool. Are they seen in churches in the states?

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