Rome 6/22 – DAY 3: Fishiness

Roman sunrise was at 5:34 and the sunset will be at 20:44.   The Ave Maria bell – which will someday ring again in better times – ought to sound at 2100.

It is the feast of St. Quirinus.

Yesterday was a 1st Friday.

I was on my way to my fish shop.  Here’s a video.

At the end, I leave you will a fine inscription in Latin.

QUAE MODO PUTRIS ERAS ET OLENTI SORDIDA COENO
PLENAQUE DEFORMI MARTIA TERRA SITU
EXUIS HANC TURPEM XISTO SUB PRINCIPE FORMAM
OMNIA SUNT NITIDIS CONSPICIENDA LOCIS
DIGNA SALUTIFERO DEBENTUR PREMIA XISTO
O QUANTUM EST SUMMO DEBITA ROMA DUCI
– “VIA FLOREA”
– BAPTISTA ARCHIONIUS ET LUDOVICUS MARGANIUS CURATORES VIAR(UM) ANNO SALUTIS MCCCCLXXXIII

Not sure what’s going on here.   I came for clams.

There’s nothing quite like a box of octopi.

One of my favorites: orata.

These do not approve of the consistory list either.

The first phase of lunch.  I survived on this in Rome for years.

My green grocer in the Campo, La Signora.   I am glad the family business survived.  However, do pray for her and her family.  She lost her husband of 61 years, Roberto, to a heart attack a month ago.  I said Mass for him yesterday.

Pilgrims.  Not sure what flavor, but the priest was in charge.

Phase two of lunch.  Not having good drinking glasses, I improvised.

Pizza bianca with zucchini flowers and anchovies.

I stopped by Cafe Sant’Eustachio for some supplies.  Really busy.

And then the church after which the square and shop are named.  There is a great painting of St. Michael the Archangel in a pretty much abandoned chapel.

Great confessionals.  In good repair, but because of the way the other furnishings are arranged, I think they are not used.

Supper.

Start with some garlic and slow heat, a splash of wine later and evaporate the alcohol in it.  Remove the garlic and leave the liquid.   Add a little starchy water from the just under al dente pasta pan.

The clams had purged in salt water all day.   In they go.   Cover.  It took about a minute with high heat to open them all.

Combine the pasta and let the oil and starches emulsify for a creamy result.

Parsley, finely chopped.  A squeeze of lemon.  Bread for the mopping up and the cheese to follow.  Supper.

 

About Fr. John Zuhlsdorf

Fr. Z is the guy who runs this blog. o{]:¬)
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3 Comments

  1. acardnal says:

    Thanks so much for this report. Enjoyed the photos and especially the videos. Loved it!

  2. Suburbanbanshee says:

    Beautiful. How I wish that I could have been there to eat some of those lovely fish!
    Clams aren’t my favorite, but those looked delish.

    Sorry to hear about the Signora’s husband, as I recall you showing pictures of her and her stall in the past. It’s such a gift that you were able to say Mass for him.

  3. Edward says:

    Father,

    The videos of the area around Campo de’ Fiori brought back the sounds and smells from our recent trip to Rome. We are enjoying the Pecorrino Romano purchased at one of the vendors. Rome is truly a special place to not only refresh the soul but also all of the senses. The sounds, the colorful vegetable displays and the energy all around are truly memorable.. Thank you for sharing the memories.

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