A question came by e-mail:
Dear Fr Z,
I am hoping you can help me with a question about vestments. Is it permissible for priests praying the Extraordinary Form of the Mass to wear "novus ordo" vestments, i.e., Gothic style WITHOUT ORPHREYS? Is this spelled out anywhere?
Our pastor has given permission for First Saturday EFM, to be said by retired priests we can line up, not himself. I am on the committee to prepare for it and to gather what the parish does not presently have available. We have some not-outrageous gothic novus ordo chasubles & stoles. If they do NOT need to have an orphrey, we could obtain just the maniple, burse, and chalice veil.
First, I don’t think there is any such thing as a "Novus Ordo" vestment. No special style of vestments is designated for the Novus Ordo. I think they ought to be in good taste and, to my mind, in continuity with tradition.
These are not.
Be sure the the vestments are of good material, tasteful, in good repair.
I did check Trimeloni and, on p. 255, found the comment (#269) that the chasuble should be what the Italians call a pianeta "in forma romana"… that is to say, the Roman chasuble. This form is sometimes called a "fiddleback", though it isn’t. The Roman-form has specific proportions and a specific pattern of "orphreys".
And Trimeloni also says that the Roman pianeta shouldn’t have the "forma primitiva", by which I think is mean the "Gothic style". It permits the more ample style of the pianeta we sometimes call this the taglio filipino:
Of course outside Rome and Italy fuller "Gothic" vestments were in use everywhere.
The vestment Trimeloni doesn’t like at all is the actual "fiddleback".
I am just digressing:
In a pinch, you can use any decent style of vestment, though the Roman Rite really prefers the Roman vestment.