Rome – Day 2: Baccala and brocade

Yesterday I mentioned the set of vestments we are having made for the Pontifical Masses. I received the following few photos before the fabric was cut and sent for sewing. The photos are not great, but they give a sense of the project.

You can see that the arms are embroidered directly into the fabric, rather than onto a patch.  More on the patch, below.

17_05_03_vestments_04 17_05_03_vestments_01 17_05_03_vestments_02

With some of the trim.  Apparently, the trim held back the project.  They thought they had enough, but when they opened a package of it, it was mismarked.  So, they had to look high and low to get enough while more is being made.  We are getting lots of vestments, as it turns out, including several copes and an antependium.


Okay… I’ll get back to the vestments.   Meanwhile, some morning shopping revealed baccala ready to be cut and taken home for Friday preparation.  If it’s Friday, it’s baccala.

At lunch I was presented with a new cardinalatial wrist band.

An old building, just because.

Back to vestments.  These are finished pieces from the pontifical set.

The humeral veil.

The gremial.

With a new pair of gloves.

Patches.  Originally they had the arms embroidered onto these which was UNACCEPTABLE.  Hence, another delay in the production of the project.

In any event, now we have these too.

You would be surprised at how many people think that I should wear shoes with buckles when I say Mass.  Available here.

Lunch having been consumed, and business errands concluded, it was off to Ss. Trinità for Mass.   The vestments were laid out in this manner.

I was recognized by someone as I was reading Mass, a long-time reader here and a former Swiss Guard in town for the Giuramento.  We had an aperativo afterward and a good chat.

So far so good.


Not much of an appetite to go out.  Hence…

Fave and peccorino and cold Frascati.  Classic.

Pizza bianca, olives, anchovies, tomini.

Tomorrow will bring prosciutto, with cantaloupe melon, nearly oozing with juicy flavor.


About Fr. John Zuhlsdorf

Fr. Z is the guy who runs this blog. o{]:¬)
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  1. Titus says:

    Hmm, I recognize that counter, but not that pescheria or those piatti. Come on, Father, you haven’t signed an exclusive deal with Elizabeth Minchilli or Katie Parla for your Roman food tips, have you? If you won’t *name* your haunts, can we at least get better hints?

  2. Julia_Augusta says:

    Beautiful vestments and shoes!

    Ah yes, baccala – they eat it in Venice in a dish called baccala mantecato and in Spain it’s called bacalao.

  3. teomatteo says:

    “If it’s Friday, it’s baccala.”
    …sigh….in our house baccala is pretty much reserved for Christmas Eve.

  4. Adaquano says:

    The Pantheon may be the most impressive building in Rome to me.

    Enjoy the prosciutto and melon, I’m still savoring one from Assisi I had 4 years ago.

  5. mo7 says:

    My grandmother, Paolina, used to make a delicious fish stew called Stoccu. She was from the south of Italy. It had a fish like baccala which was purchased dried and soaked for a few days. The stew had olives, carrots maybe a little onion with a tomato base. It took forever to make! It was food for wintertime for sure, and a staple on Christmas Eve. Thanks for the memory Fr. Z.

  6. Mariana2 says:

    Swooning over all he pictures. Thanks, Father!

  7. benedetta says:

    Your photos of Rome always capture the beautiful essence of life in that citta, Father. The seasons order life so beautifully there, in simplicity. What you have shown here motivates me to praise our Creator in gratitude. In the times such as they are, these glimpses of simple goodness are refreshment.

  8. Uxixu says:

    Love the vestments. Where does the reference with shoes and buckles come from? I’ve seen that a few times.

  9. G. Thomas Fitzpatrick says:

    Father out of curiosity regarding buckled shoes. Are priests required to wear a specific pattern? I should saw “were” they. As an American Revolution reenactor, buckled shoes are the norm for wear in uniform. I would suspect that Jas. Townsend & Sons, G. Gedney Godwin, or Fugawee could provide plain old-fashioned black buckled shoes for a fraction of the cost of your man in Rome. Even though you have to spend an extra $40 or so for the buckles (sold separately from a good variety).

  10. Gabriel Syme says:

    Speaking of buckled shoes, I remember reading the obituary of an interesting French Priest who died a few years ago in London, aged 99.

    Fr Jean-Marie Charles-Roux was a Rosminian priest and was devoted to the traditional liturgy. He wore buckled shoes. The reason I always remember him was that his obituary described how, when his buckled shoes wore out and he couldn’t find a new set, he superglued his old buckles to a pair of new slip-on shoes. Genius!

    Here he is (the buckle story is in the first link):

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