Rome – Day 2: Mozarabic Edition

This morning I was back in the library for another round. I think one more morning out to do it for me.

Meanwhile, on my way to meet folks for lunch I went by a favorite bookstore. You never know what you are going to see in the bargain bin.

Look at this cool way to chill wine.  In a cramped space it’s great.

Bruschetta with tomatoes and clams!

Raw sea critters.

Spaghetti alle vongole.


Then it was off to a special Mass in the Mozarabic Rite.  There are heaps of people here for canonizations tomorrow and the Archbishop of Toledo celebrated in the Mozarabic Rite in St. Peter’s Basilica.

I went in through the side entrance to the sacristy of the Basilica.

In the little hallway going into the sacristy there are locked cabinets.  I had one of these cabinets shared with another priest, for several years since we said Mass there everyday.  We kept our chalices there, the books we wanted.  The sisters took care of our albs and altar linens.

Mine was on the lower level in the middle.

Cardinals saying hi in the sacristy.

My view for Mass.

One of the petitions really caught my attention:

Solicitemos, pues, de la omnipotencia del Padre, por el nombre del Hijo Salvador, … la extinción de la infidelidad herética.

Do I hear an “Amen!”?

On the way down the via dei Coronari, I stopped to say hi to the guys who run the spiffy bonsai tree store, L’Albero Antico Bonsai.  I asked if they still had my little Roman tree.  They do.   Check out their site.  HERE  For all of you in Rome, get a bonsai!  They are not expensive, they help a room out, and these guys can babysit the tree while you are out of Rome.  I didn’t think they would have to have mine so long, but… hey!

Walking to supper tonight we passed by the Church of Sts. Vincent and Athanasius, wherein are kept the entrails of lots of Popes.  You read that right.  Also, this church hasn’t yet changed the Pope’s stemma over the door.  It was rather nice.   Then again, I think there is still one that has the stemma of Paul VI and, if I am not mistaken, another that still has John XXIII.

We were out tonight with the Great Roman Fabrizio™ and his Better Half™.

Some moments of the meal.

If you are wondering, tartufo nero.  And the ravioli have ricotta and spinach.

Coniglio in umido.

I think this steak came from a T-Rex.  A small T-Rex, however.


Dessert, which I almost never have, was fresh pineapple.

Tomorrow there is a Pontifical Mass at the faldstool at Ss. Trinitá dei Pelegrini at 10 am.

About Fr. John Zuhlsdorf

Fr. Z is the guy who runs this blog. o{]:¬)
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  1. benedetta says:

    Excellent travelogue, Father! Funny, I taught my homeschooler the Italian word “coniglio” just yesterday as we watched a cotton tail, rather fat, hop around in the backyard, and considered whether to catch and roast in the Italian style…

  2. Suburbanbanshee says:

    Ss. Vincent and Athanasius is apparently a gutsy parish.

  3. Legisperitus says:

    Father, I hope you snagged that volume of St. Thomas… assuming it was a good bargain.

  4. Matt R says:

    Is Ss. Vincenzo e Anastasio ever open? I walked by it a good half-dozen times on my two recent trips to Rome, and it was always closed.

    S. Agnese in Agona is also rarely open; I managed to get inside on Holy Saturday, which was the second time I had been by all day. They never observe their hours.

    They put up the stemma of Francis and also of Benedict, but the one over the central door is that of John Paul II. I actually looked for these in Rome because of the blog posts which pointed them out.

    I suspect I had a fair few friends at Trinità for the Mass today.

  5. Nancy D. says:

    It is important to note that those who profess to be Catholic but deny that God Is The Author of Love, Life, and Marriage are apostates, not just heretics.

    One cannot be assenting to the truths of The Catholic Faith and dissenting from the truths of The Catholic Faith, simultaneously. There is the great deception.

  6. yatzer says:

    Spaghetti alle vongole!! I have a fantasy of buying an airplane ticket and flying to Italy just to have some of that. The USA doesn’t seem to have the correct type clams.

  7. Norah says:

    I’m not comfortable with bonsai. The technique used to obtain the desired height and form of the trees reminds me of the technique used to obtain the desired size of women’s feel by, beginning with a little girl, binding the feet with bandages which broke bones and enabled them to be molded in such a way that the women’s feet were the size desired by men. The binding meant that women couldn’t walk very far and walked – hobbled – in a certain style which was deemed erotic. No, even though bonsai trees are attractive I am not comfortable with them.

  8. Norah: I don’t see it. The bonsai is a plant. A plant.

  9. Dutchman says:

    Thanks for taking the time to post all of these travel pics, Father. We sticks in the mud enjoy the virtual good time.

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